The Last Days: Triumphs and Tragedies

Written Feb. 28th

I’m having a hard time putting my thoughts into words. How can I possibly sum up my time in Ghana? It feels like it’s been forever and no time at all since I first stepped off the plane into this once foreign land. Now, in many ways, this place is my home.

It’s tough to think that in less than 12 hours I will be on a plane back to Toronto. The thought is composed mostly of feelings of apprehension and anxiety, but also relief and excitement. Everything feels very surreal. Finding the energy to pack is difficult, I keep finding myself getting lost in thought. Dwelling. Reminiscing. Like it or not, this adventure is over. It’s been relegated to the ranks of memories.

 A school in Adenta

Ghana has certainly been a place of extremes. Looking in the face of urban poverty can be quite distressing; but in Accra, this is always coupled with extravagant homes, flashy cars, the latest fashion trends and just about “upscale” everything. The levels of inequality are stark – and very visible. It is still not uncommon to see lepers on the street begging for food and shoeless children selling water. Sometimes the despair can be overwhelming. But more often than not, Ghanaians are happy, loud, boisterous and extremely welcoming people. They love any opportunity to smile and laugh. They take pride in their peaceful mentalities. From triumphs to tragedies, Ghana will always have a special place in my heart. 

Waterfall in Larabanga (I think that's where it is, anyway)

To say this trip has only been positive would be a downright lie. In line with the theme of extremes, my emotions too have been something close to a rollercoaster ride. There were times when I wished to never leave my house. I grew tired of feeling like a minor celebrity once I left my door. More than once I was tempted to yell, “MY NAME IS NOT OBURONI!” Being hassled by men became a daily occurrence. Learning how to let them down lightly without bruising their tender male egos was a constant negotiation. I’ve been through betrayals, heartbreaks, flings and lies. But my time in Ghana has taught me invaluable lessons about myself, my future and how I wish to live from here on in.

I have made some amazing friends here. To name them all would be impossible. But the people who made the most lasting impact on my life were, without a doubt, the beach children in Kokrobite. I remember crying on the beach during my last weekend, because I knew it would probably be the last time I would see many of them again. They taught me how to dance and sing, speak Twi and truly make the most of every little miracle. I taught them to read, write, draw and think about their futures. They protected me and looked out for me. I answered their curious questions and they answered mine. These children, many of whom are completely alone, spending all day at the beach, living from meal to meal, showed me what I want to do with my life, where I want to invest my energy, where I can truly make a difference. When they came bounding towards me and wrapped me with hugs, I knew I was doing something right.

 One of my sweeties at Kokrobite

Writing this now is hard for me. Knowing that tomorrow I will be so removed from such a monumental time in my life has me battling some conflicting emotions. I will miss so many aspects of Ghanaian culture – I wish I could adequately express my sadness in leaving. Instead of making a spectacle of my departure, I have decided to leave quietly. With my simple good-byes, I can only maintain the conviction in my heart that one day I will be back here again. I have begun to see the bigger picture of the world and my life, to appreciate the triumphs amongst the tragedies and forge a future deserving of everything that has been given to me during these past 8 months.

Learning to love and to lose is one of the hardest lessons in life. Like a mother molding a child into an adult, Ghana has never given up on me.

Medaase.

Celebrations at Adjiriganor Public School of "Best Teacher Awards"

It's Time

I know, I know, it’s been forever since I’ve updated this thing! Does anyone even read this? Everything feels a tad strange because I realize I’m coming to the end of my adventure. Can you believe it?! Only 7 weeks left. I’ll turn around twice and it’ll all be over. It’s like seeing the finish line, but not wanting to end the race. 

Truth be told, I’m silly excited to see all my friends and family again. To see how much or how little things have changed. To enjoy consistent and reliable electricity and always knowing that when I turn on the tap, water will come out. To have obnoxiously long, hot showers (although I might feel guilty). And to sit on a spacious and sometimes even air conditioned bus! But with all this said, a part of me will stay in Ghana, just as my experience in Ghana will always remain with me. Tiringly cliché I know – but it’s just so true! 

I wonder how long this fresh perspective will last me? Will I ever make it back to Ghana? I hate questions to which the only viable answer is “time will tell.” But if I’ve learned anything during my time here it’s that time is as much an objective truth as it is a subjective one. No matter how hard we try it just keeps moving us forward to an inevitable end..kinda like this trip. But it’s also a social construct, an understanding, an idea. It’s the reason a simple task that should take 2 hours, takes 2 weeks. It’s an appreciation of the process rather than the end result. It’s knowing that nothing is worth it if it’s rushed. We are all servants of time. And in due time, I’m sure I’ll be back.

Another realization I came to was that I’ve been here for 6 months and I havn't really given you the low down of my work. I’m sorry ooo! I’m the Gender Advocacy Assistant to the Girl Child Officer of the Adentan Municipal Education Directorate. We design programming to support girls through school while working to make school environments more inclusive to female students.

 So far we have: conducted personal hygiene workshops to address cleanliness and sanitation habits with a special focus on how to deal with menstruation. This workshop was important because many girls end up missing school every month when they are menstruating, leaving them at a distinct disadvantage to boys. Equipped with easy, low cost methods of keeping their bodies clean, girls are able to stay in school even during Mother Nature’s little gift.

We also facilitated sexual transmitted diseases workshops as a method to reduce new infections of HIV/AIDS and teenage pregnancy. Girls here are often encouraged to marry young and aren’t given the tools or the confidence to turn down sexual activity or endorse condom use. Often when they become pregnant they are not given another opportunity to finish school. These workshops were done with both male and female students. We gave them the opportunity to ask anonymous questions and some of them were just fascinating! It became clear to us that this type of education is crucial for youth. Many were very curious about condom use and diseases, but I could tell that condoms are still not socially acceptable or even  affordable for many sexually active teens.

After the workshops, we planned a Role Model Conference for over 500 girls. This conference was designed so that girls could see that their hard work in school can and will pay off. We invited prominent, successful and inspiring Ghanaian women as guest speakers as well as University of Ghana students to act as mentors. The conference featured poems, and dramatic performances by the girls as well as an open forum where participants could as the role models any questions.

Then we began our training sessions with teachers who run Girls’ Clubs in schools. These clubs are meant to be a safe place where girls can meet, discuss their challenges both at home and at school and strategize ways to address them. Unfortunately most schools didn’t have functioning Girls’ Clubs and it is hoped that our training sessions will motivate teachers to come up with new activities to run and create avenues of community engagement.  Our second session is scheduled for later this month.

Lastly, we have our first annual Youth Arts Festival. This event is meant to allow students to really delve into social and cultural issues through performance. We also hope to provide skill training in basket-weaving, beads making and painting in order to showcase their works during the show. Any proceeds we receive will go into a Girl Child Education Fund which will help girls in need with school fees, uniforms and stationary. The festival is scheduled for the end of Feberuary and wouldn't be possible without the generous support of Fusion TV in Canada. 

Well, I think that’s about it! I hope you feel a little more up to speed. During my last two months I hope to travel more, finish my last few activities, wrap up my data collection for my research and write a couple more posts pour vous! If I don't get around to all that, well, I'll be seeing you all soon regardless. Be prepared for endless stories about Ghana.

I will not spare you!

 P.S. I tried to upload some pictures for your viewing pleasure - but it's way too freakin' slow and I'm way too impatient =)